Roads, Rails and Trails

My Ken Burns Christmas

A Christmas card scene if there ever was one: the Yosemite chapel as snow falls on a quiet Sunday morning.

I wouldn't call it my best idea (that would be the multi-function GPS/autopilot/cell phone/Twitter auto-responder), but -- inspired by Ken Burns' recent series, "The National Parks: America's Best Idea," I planned my holiday to visit Sequoia, Kings Canyon and Yosemite National Parks. My goals were to add some winter photography to my portfolio and get some cold-weather hiking under my belt, or parka, or both. And to celebrate a white Christmas, sans Bing Crosby.

I had planned three days each in Sequoia/Kings Canyon and Yosemite. Unfortunately, I had to cut short my Yosemite visit due to business demands and a surprise snow storm. Nevertheless, I did accomplish all of my objectives.

I arrived in Sequoia/Kings Canyon the day after a fresh few inches of snow, which gave the forests of fir and redwoods a clean, winter holiday look. The distant 12,000-foot plus peaks of the High Sierras were blazing white. Temperatures were in the 30s and low 40s during the day, and no more snow arrived during my stay in the John Muir Lodge, a rustic 36 room inn at Grant Village. Roads were clear except for occasional patches of refrozen slush and some black ice in north-facing sections that receive little sun. Careful driving in my steady Subaru avoided any problems.

Trails beyond the most popular were covered in up to two feet of snow, and I wasn't equipped with either snowshoes or cross-country skis, so my excursions onto these trails were limited. I experienced both overcast skies and bright sunny days. By late afternoon, the sun would melt the snow along the tree branches, creating a rain shower under the giant sequoias.

I found subjects for my lens ranging from broad landscapes to forest meadows and close-up details. At the turnoff to the road to Lake Hume, I came upon a snow-covered meadow where the trees were decorated with frost and snow, looking like cheesy flocked Christmas trees from the 1960s. Only these were real.

Yosemite's skies were gray and threatening on the afternoon I arrived. I quickly got some moody shots of the iconic El Capitan/Half Dome scene from Tunnel View, and scouted the Valley for the next day's shoot.

The following morning found heavy, wet snow falling in Yosemite Valley. That had not been predicted: the forecast had called for the snow level to be at 5,000 feet, a good margin above the Valley's elevation of about 4,000 feet. It was already at three or four inches, with more accumulating. That's when I decided to shorten the trip, as I needed to be home no later than the next day. I still found time for some good shots as the snow was falling. As long as I could keep the camera reasonably dry, and clean the lens frequently, I was able to keep shooting.

Although disappointed to leave early, I was happy with the images I got and what I learned by scouting  locations for a future return to Yosemite.

The select images are on my photo website in the national parks gallery.

Breakfast at the end of the Trail

It was surprisingly fog-shrouded below Griffith Observatory this morning as I began an early morning hike up to Mt. Hollywood. Late September is more commonly clear, with perhaps a promise of hot temperatures brought in on the Santa Ana winds. Today was calm.

I hadn't had a real plan for the day, or even for breakfast other than the cereal bar in my pocket. But there is a pleasant place near the Fern Dell parking lot that I knew would open at 9:00. If I could stretch out my hike, that might be a good choice. With a bit of detouring around the Observatory itself on my way up, I made it back to my car at 8:55 and headed immediately to the Trails Cafe.

Although tempted by a satanic selection of overstuffed pies, I played the part of the good boy and ordered the multigrain waffle. It was just enough to replace the carbs I'd expended on the 5.5 mile hike, hot and tasty with maple syrup. The coffee was served in a compostable paper cup and the utensils were labeled as biodegradable. Wow, I was really being a good boy.

Sometimes I wish the Trails Cafe would open earlier, as I prefer sunrise hikes, but at any time the food is good and the service pleasant. The seating is all outdoors under the oak trees, on picnic style tables, accompanied by scampering squirrels.

One of these days I have to get back there for a piece of that monumental cherry pie.

One Day on the Slough

The Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve. A network of trails lead from the visitor's center, at left, to groves of eucalyptus and coast live oak, and down to the marsh.

Like most of the 30 or so people aboard Capt. Yohn Gideon's 27-foot pontoon boat, the wildlife was so abundant that I couldn't decide where to point my camera. We were moving gently through the Elkhorn Slough, a seven-mile long wetlands reserve not far from Salinas, Calif. Brown pelicans flew by in formation, skimming the water for a meal. Sea otters played to the crowd as our boat passed. California sea lions lazed along the shore.

This was mid-August, and the area's wildlife changes with the seasons, as does the tour boat's schedule. We were out at mid-day, leaving the dock at Moss Landing around 11:00 a.m., just as the relentless summer coastal fog was starting to lift.  And if you don't know where to look first, the Captain and his tour guide will point you in the right direction.

Hungry after the two hour ride, I grabbed a quick lunch in town and drove around to the east side of the Slough to reach the visitor's center of the California state reserve. Some five miles of trails provide access to 2,500 acres, leading from the hilltop visitor's center down to the marsh. From the air, the Slough looks stark and uninviting, but the trails dip through small groves of eucalyptus and coast live oak trees. The well-marked, gentle trails also skirt the water, providing another angle on the birds and marine life. A wildlife blind along the Five Fingers Loop Trail is perfect for birders and photographers in the early morning, and I found an otter swimming near the footbridge along the South Marsh Loop Trail.

The longest hike will take you out to Hummingbird Island, a quiet wooded area across the Union Pacific railroad track, which cuts through the marsh. Be careful crossing the track: this is a busy, active, high-speed railroad for both passenger and freight trains.

The visitor's center and trails are open year-round, Wednesday to Sunday, from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Spend at least a day on the Slough, from both land and water, and bring your camera.

Three Hikes in Griffith Park

It was 92 degrees the other morning when I when up to the Griffith Park Observatory in Los Angeles to do some photography, so perhaps this isn't the best time of year to recommend hiking in the popular Hollywood Hills enclave. But I'm not promising you a rose garden.

What I am promising are great views, lung-filling climbs and easy access to the nation's largest urban wilderness park. The 4,219 acre city park is just 15 minutes from downtown Los Angeles, west of the I-5 freeway. Some 1,200 acres, more than a quarter of the park, burned during a May 2007 fire. Evidence of the fire can readily be seen, but most of the hiking trails have reopened except in the southeast quadrant around the former Bird Sanctuary.

Hike #1: Hooray for Mt. Hollywood

The classic hike -- the one every visitor wants to do first -- is up to Mt. Hollywood along the Charlie Turner Trail. It's an easy hike in full view of the famous Hollywood sign most of the way, and provides great views back toward the Observatory. On a clear day you'll have a view all the way from downtown L.A. across Hollywood and Century City out to Santa Monica. On a rare pristine day, you might even glimpse the Pacific Ocean.

Most visitors will start from the Observatory, but you'll be hard pressed to see this as a wilderness park if you go on a weekend. Avoid the parking congestion and gain some more exercise by starting at the parking area along Fern Dell Drive at the western side of the park. Climb through Western Canyon and the West Trail to cross the Observatory Road, where a further short but steep hike will connect you with the Charlie Turner Trail. From there, follow everyone else.

I like to add a little more mileage by detouring at the trail junction just below Mt. Hollywood to Dante's View. You can find some shade and seating there before continuing on up to the Mt. Hollywood viewpoint. The total climb is about one thousand feet and the round-trip distance about five miles.

Replenish your proteins and carbs at the Trails Cafe, just downhill from the Fern Dell parking area.

Hike #2: It's all happening at the Old Zoo

The current Los Angeles Zoo in the northeast corner of Griffith Park opened in 1966, but from 1912 until then, a much small zoo existed a few miles south near the current merry-go-round. Start this hike from the parking area here, on a trail visible at the southwest corner. Climb up and to the right to put yourself on the Old Zoo Trail. Some of the old cages can be seen from the trail. Bee Rock, at 1,056 feet, will soon come into view on your left.

The trail to Bee Rock was closed the last time I went through, so my route continued past to the junction with the signed Bill Eckert Trail. This trail winds up and past three water tanks (the tanks hold water for firefighting needs) to the paved Vista Del Valle Drive. The drive was also closed, so I stopped there and returned by the same route. You'll find some shade provided by the deep canyons, and you'll gain some views toward the east as you climb higher up. The song of air horns from distant trains plying the route through Glendale will greet you along the trail. This hike is about 4.5 miles round trip.

For a little variety on the return trip, take a left at the Bee Rock Trail, which will bring you to the north side of the parking area right by the merry-go-round. Reward yourself with an ice cream bar at the snack stand.

Hike #3: Downtown views without the crowds

Aside from the Hollywood sign, hike #1 offers great views of the Los Angeles downtown skyline, but even better views -- minus the Mt. Hollywood crowds -- can be seen from Beacon Hill and a nearby vista point. You'll start this hike from the same place as hike #2, but make a left turn on the trail to climb up Fern Canyon Trail. Continue  on Fern Canyon as it switchbacks up the hillside through a heavily burned area to 5 Points, a junction of five trails at 953 feet. Make a sharp right to continue on up to the Vista Point at 1,089 feet. Enjoy the views here, although there's no shade.

When you're ready to continue, follow the paved road a short distance down grade. Just where it makes a 180-degree turn, take the dirt trail on y0ur left, which will lead you directly back to 5 Points. Before heading back down Fern Canyon (second trail on the left), go straight across the trail junction and on up to Beacon Hill. It's just a few-minute hike up, and here, at 1,001 feet, you'll have excellent views toward Downtown, along the I-5 freeway and east to Glendale.

Return to 5 Points, make a right, and follow Fern Canyon Trail back down to the parking area. You'll have put about 5.5 miles on your hiking boots.

Be sure to bring plenty of water to avoid dehydration, and watch out for rattlesnakes. Don't forget the sunscreen, as you'll be on exposed ridges and trails, and even though this is an urban park, it's also habitat for coyotes, bobcat and mountain lions. Exercise caution, be aware of your surroundings and enjoy a safe hike.

Spring on the Santa Rosa Plateau

Wildflowers, warmth and crowds graced the landscape this Easter weekend at the Santa Rosa Plateau Ecological Reserve. The temperature rose during a 5.5-mile morning hike from about 70 to 85 degrees by 12:30, and visitors kept coming, eager to see the abundant wildflower bloom.

California poppies could be found along the Vernal Pool trail, up on Poppy Hill, and on hillsides along the Hidden Valley trail. Chocolate lillies, blue dicks, goldfields, lupines and other tiny flowers dot the trailsides.

I put in three hours carrying full camera gear, and returned hot, sweaty, hungry and tired. Stadium Pizza in Murietta rejuvenated me for the drive back to L.A. I'll have the best shots from Santa Rosa posted on my photoblog in about a week.