Amtrak's California Zephyr: The Way West

August 11, 2005

“We simply cannot keep going on sending empty trains clear across the country with no riders.”
-- Rep. Harold Rogers (R-Ky.), House floor, June 29, 2005

“Americans don’t like to travel that way anymore.” (referring to long trips by rail)
-- Senator Robert Bennett (R-Utah), Senate floor, March 15, 2005

“Amtrak today clings to routes that have long since faded from use.”
-- U.S. Transportation Secretary Norman Mineta, Charlotte, N.C. press conference, Feb. 22, 2005

Amid this year’s barrage of anti-Amtrak attacks coming out of Washington, we decided to take a ride on one of the railroad’s long distance trains to see for ourselves if these comments had any merit. We made our reservations online, paid full fare and didn’t tell anyone at Amtrak what we were doing.

So, on Saturday, August 6, 2005, we arrived at Chicago Union Station about an hour before the scheduled departure of our westbound train, the California Zephyr. With a first-class ticket in the sleeping car, we were allowed into the spacious Metropolitan Lounge. It’s the equal of any airline club, the staff was friendly and we enjoyed a free cup of decaf.

About half an hour before train time, we were escorted to the platform. Our sleeper compartment was waiting, clean and stocked with cups, towels, soap and toilet paper. At exactly 1:50 p.m., per schedule, train number 5 slid out of the station for its 2,438 mile journey.

The Zephyr has an illustrious history, and is one of Amtrak’s success stories. It was launched in 1949 as a joint operation of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, the Denver & Rio Grande Western, and the Western Pacific railroads. It was designed and built as a luxury cruise train, and scheduled to maximize sightseeing of the Colorado Rockies and California High Sierras from its Vista Dome cars. But, by the time Amtrak came into existence in 1971, the California Zephyr was no more.

Amtrak revived a Chicago to Oakland route, but it was not the route of the Zephyr nor did it carry the name. It wasn’t until 1983, when the D&RGW agreed to join Amtrak, that the service and the name could return.

Today’s California Zephyr serves more than 335,000 passengers a year. That’s an average of about 460 riders per train. Our train was sold out. That doesn’t equate to “sending empty trains across the country.”

Saturday’s train consisted of two locomotives and eleven cars. They included three sleepers (one of which also served as dorm space for the train service staff), three coaches and the dining and lounge cars.

Coach and sleeping car passengers mingled in the mid-train sightseer lounge car and the dining car. The riders we met came from all walks of life and all parts of the country. The first evening, at dinner, we met Tim and his young son, who were returning to Denver after visiting family in the east. In addition to the Zephyr, they’d ridden the Capitol Limited, the Cardinal, and the City of New Orleans. Tim wanted his son to see America and experience American history.

At breakfast the next morning, we met a young couple. He was from Hong Kong, via Oakland, and she was from Queens, N.Y. They wanted to see America – not from 35,000 feet or from an eight-lane interstate, but from the comfort and perspective of the train.

Many of those we spoke with chose the train as an alternative to the hassles of flying or the costs of driving. That’s a freedom of choice they’ll lose if the anti-Amtrak White House gets its way.

There were many families with children, like the foursome from Montana we met in the lounge car who were heading to San Francisco. Train travel is perfect for families: kids have more room than in a car or plane, and more to keep them busy. They can make new friends, sightsee or roam the train. Our enjoyable dinner companion of the second night, Nancy, explained that she didn’t have to worry about the safety of her niece while on board the train. She was traveling back to Sacramento after spending time with her sister.

Some choose the train to unwind and relax. The Amish are frequent riders: they take the train for religious reasons. A number of passengers were concerned – rightly – that this would be their last chance to enjoy a long distance train if Washington shuts Amtrak down.

At lunch on day three, just as we began the climb up to Truckee, Calif. in the spectacular Sierra Mountains, we met author Lynn Rogers and her traveling companion, Bob (sorry, we didn’t get his last name). She sees train travel not only as a way to address the transportation needs of a diverse population, but also as a way to bring that population together. We couldn’t agree more.

Regular riders complained of two main issues: delayed trains and surly service. Both are issues Amtrak is addressing. We didn’t encounter any bad service, but we can’t be surprised at negative attitudes from hard-working employees whose jobs are constantly being threatened by politicians in Washington who never ride the trains they condemn.

Excessive delays are common, especially on certain routes. It’s a problem for Amtrak as well as some commuter railroads which run on freight railroad tracks. We’ll tackle this problem here in more detail in a forthcoming series, but we experienced the frustration first-hand on train 5.

On the second night out from Chicago, we pulled into Salt Lake City at 10:22 p.m., 11 minutes ahead of schedule. But, by the time we woke up the next morning, we were two hours behind schedule. It got worse throughout the third and final day, as freight congestion held us up east of Sparks, Nev. and again through Donner Pass in Northern California. We arrived in Emeryville, Calif., the train’s final stop, about six and a half hours late.

That’s a problem to be fixed; not a reason to run Amtrak out of business. Here’s what we experienced in three days and 2,438 miles of train travel: a clean, quiet, smooth-riding sleeper car; excellent food; interesting people; amazing scenery; time to relax; and time to appreciate our country and its people.

Despite the misinformed criticism emanating from many in Washington, Amtrak has had more than a few success stories in its 34-year history, and the California Zephyr is one of them. Let’s keep it running.

Ride along with us: view a 10-minute video at Google Video here.

Comments

[Stuart Lawrence]

I went on amtrack from oakland to seattle and onto Chaicgo via the empire builder and reall enjoyed the trip and then onto to New York City way back in 1993 and the only let down of the trip was the arrival into penn station new york.

[John W.]

A trip across country in the Amtrak California Zephyr is not to be missed. My only regret is I have not taken the trip sooner. The accommodations were clean, the staff absolutely wonderful (despite staff cutbacks), the food surprisingly good and the scenery was spectacular. The nicest thing about being on the Zephyr is that feeling of being "away from it all." On board, you're cares and worries are behind you. You can do nothing more than simply enjoy. I would recommend this trip to everyone. We traveled from Omaha to the end of the line in California and enjoyed every single mile. Long live Amtrak!

[C. Hammond]

I practically grew up on the original CZ, the "Silver Lady", during its 21 years of operation (1949-1970). My father worked for Western Pacific as an officer, so our family had a coach pass on the Zephyr, subject to seating availability (Of course, revenue passengers came first).

I have ridden the Amtrak Zephyr several times. It is a fine train, but it pales in comparison to the original luxurious Zephyr, in looks, equipment, service, and routing.

Today's "Zephyr" avoids the beautiful 112 mile Feather River Canyon in California's Sierra Nevada mountains and runs instead through Reno and over Donner Pass. I believe many seasoned travelers would agree that the Donner Pass route pales in comparison with the rugged, everchanging beauty of the Feather River Canyon..(each curve seems to bring a fascinating new type of scenery). No, I have no connecions with the California or Plumas County Tourist bureaus!

I truly miss the "good old days" of the original California Zephyr.

[Deborah Sawyer]

I took that trip, years ago, when I was still traveling a lot. To be sure, the quarters are not exactly spacious (think cruise ship cabin) so one has to be sure that all traveling companions are compatible. But what a fantastic way to see the country! Even better than by small private plane, especially if you're afraid to fly, as I once was....

[betsy kovacik]

My husband and 13 year old son have wanted to travel the Cal Zephyr for many years We are tenetatively scheduled on the Chi to San Fran this April. I am worried about the talk of 8+ hours of delay etc. We have limited time on this trip. How are the accomodations- sleeper car with bathroom , food, etc. any feedback would be great....

[Alan Barnard, Salem, Missouri]

Thanks so much for your thoughtful post and excellent videos. (The BCRail video is sad.) In October (07), I'm heading out fm St. Louis to CHI, then to EMY on the CZ then LAX on the Starlate, then Texas Eagle to St. Louis. Hardly my first trip on any of these routes. The Empire Builder used to seem "bargainish", now it seems "pricey", don't know why; and the Eagle/Sunset used to be a real bargain, sometimes, for sleepers; again, no more, apparently. Whenever I can ride steel, I do so — always wondering if this will by the last possible time: for the future of my grandchildren—and my country—I certaily hope not.

[Charlie]

I took a 14 day cross-country trip in 1997 (NYC to Chicago to San Fransisco to Seattle to Chicago and back to NY). We rode the Lake Shore Limited, The California Zephyr, The Coast Starlight, The Empire Builder, and once again the Lake Shore Limited. It was an amazing trip and it's the only way one can really see the country. Many of the people we met on the train were from other countries (Australia, Switzerland, England, etc.) More than a few of them had traveled here just for the train ride. Some of them remarked at how shortsighted Amtrak was by not advertising these long-haul trains.

This coming June, I have a conference in Seattle to which my wife and I are traveling by train (NY-Chi-SanFran-Seattle) We'll spend some time in SF and then go through the Cascades to Seattle. Due to time constraints we will have to fly back, but I am really looking forward to seeing the Rockies up close again.

[Al]

My girlfriend and I are in our early '40's. I had the "airline trip from ****" last year and it seems that air travel is really getting worse. We decided to take the Zephyr from Lincoln (LNK) Nebraska to Emeryville CA (EMY). We had a blast!!!! We too were on time until we got on rail lines congested with freight traffic. We didn't have anything set in stone timewise and arriving late didn't bother us. We have taken Amtrak 2 months after that and we are taking another trip from LNK to GSC (Glenwood Springs CO) on Labor Day. We love taking the train. I'm wired for 110 and always going 220 and the train forces me to relax, visit with my travelling companions, to read, look out the window, meditate and not "run through the airport" like OJ Simpson. I will take Amtrak now as much as possible because air travel has become such a nightmare.

[Jesse]

I once rode the California Zephyr from Mt. Pleasant, Iowa to Denver, Colorado. I found it to be a pleasant experience, and the staff all seemed to be friendly enough. I went in coach, and the seat was comfortable enough that I had no problem falling asleep and staying asleep throughout the night.

I hope the politicians in DC don't scrap the Zephyr. If I get a chance, I hope to ride it or another Amtrak line again.