Journeys: Dan Zukowski

Rolling by Night

There are only a few things more enjoyable than a dark, empty night highway. I'm talking about those great long stretches of Interstate out among the wide open, far beyond the urban glow and the suburban spread. The roads that only vaguely connect distant cities but are really ribbon communities apart, always changing and ever changeless.

There is a romance associated with the old, two-lane rural roads, the Route 66's and Ocean Highways of memory. Those were the highways of my youth, of motels named Vacancy and diners named Eat. Of those that remain, they exist mainly for the scenery that displays itself by day. After sundown, they are hazards of unknown curves and unseen wildlife. You never know where the next gas station or restaurant will be, and let's face it, no one uses these routes to go from Point A to Point B anymore.

The Interstate is, yes, merely functional by day. Even the most scenic stretches of I-number highways disrupts the landscape with its multi-lane, medianed intrusion. At night, however, it becomes a landscape unto itself.

First, of course, the amount of traffic diminishes after dark, and what remains is purposeful and often professional: truckers, mainly, road warriors, wanderers. Take I-10 through the Arizona desert or I-70 through the Colorado Rockies or I-80 east from Reno and it's possible, even probable, especially after the midnight hour, to go long stretches without passing or being passed by another vehicle. It's likely you'll know of other life only by the faint and distant trailer lights way up ahead or the infrequent headlights of a car moving silently toward the hills from which you just came.

There are oases: the truck stops and inevitable junctions, populated everywhere by dead-same gas stations and fast food disappointments. This is, sadly, where the individualism of the two-laners has disappeared; but for better or worse, it is where the community of the Interstate gathers.

The lights of the oasis are often visible for miles at night. No signs are needed to know that relief is approaching when my gas gauge drops to dangerous levels or my brain begins to ache for caffeine. I watch the lights grow as the miles to the stadium-lit interchange decrease and the form of the towering Chevron sign becomes clear. I'll power up the exit ramp, trying to brake my brain down from 75 to a local speed. I'll pull up to the nearest gas pump and step out of the car. After so many miles, the cool night air instantly refreshes.

Maybe it's early enough and the burger joint is still open; if not, the convenience store will have hot coffee and some plastic-wrapped sandwiches. It's less about the content, more about the ritual: fuel, food, restroom. And for me, always a brief walk to de-pool the blood.

The oasis is where the community of the highway night comes together, briefly and anonymously. That's just fine with me. Soon, I'll turn the ignition key, check the mirrors and head back out to the solitude of the starlight and the dashlight, rolling toward, or away from, home.

Staycation Los Angeles #1

The Arts and Culture Weekend

Unemployment. Foreclosures. Bailouts. Sometimes, we just need to get away from all the bad news. This year, though, many of us want to get away while staying close to home, hence the sudden popularity of the "staycation" -- a vacation in place, as it were. If you happen to live in or near Los Angeles, you're already in a city others long to visit. So get out and enjoy it.

Among my favorite ways to get above the rising tide of bad news is to immerse myself in the world of arts and culture. Los Angeles has much to offer, so here's a suggested itinerary for an enriching extended weekend encompassing art, theater, film and music.

Head to the Los Angeles County Museum of Art on a pleasant Friday afternoon. Start by taking in the Broad Contemporary Art Museum (BCAM), which opened last year. From there, walk across the plaza to the Ahmanson Building, which houses European art, ancient world art, and African art. Exit the Ahmanson Building to the Central Court and head to the Art of the Americas building for a tour through some of our greatest painters.

By now, you may be getting hungry, so cross back to the Pentimento Restaurant for an early dinner. If they're crowded or you want lower-priced fare, the Plaza Cafe has a good selection of entrees, salads and burgers.

I always enjoy the Japanese Art Pavilion, and it's a good way to stretch your legs after dinner. But don't dawdle, or you'll miss the best seats for Friday Night Jazz.

Grab a glass of Chardonnay and take a seat in the cool evening of the main plaza to enjoy a free concert by noted jazz artists starting at 6:00 PM. Now in its 18th season, performances run every Friday from April through November.

Cap off the evening with coffee and cake at Aroma Bakery (7373 Sunset Boulevard). The selection of pastries and cookies is amazing; you'll want one of everything. The place is a scene on Friday and Saturday nights, but there's plenty of valet parking and lots of seating, both inside and on the patio.

Start your Saturday in Pasadena at the Noah's Bagels on Lake St. Don't rush through breakfast, because you'll be heading just a few miles east to The Huntington in San Marino. Once the estate of railroad magnate C.P. Huntington, the highly-regarded library draws scholars and researchers from around the world. On view to the public are a Gutenberg Bible, a Chaucer manuscript dating from about 1400, and documents written in the hand of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and Abraham Lincoln.

The Huntington Gardens are magnificent. Spend a few leisurely hours strolling the Chinese Garden ("The Garden of Flowing Fragrance," which opened in February of 2008) and the Japanese Garden. The North Vista is a famed film location.

The Huntington's art collection is a must-see. It includes Gainsborough's "Blue Boy" along with works by J.M.W. Turner, Joshua Reynolds, Gilbert Stuart and Mary Cassatt.

For lunch, make a reservation at the Rose Garden Tea Room. Select from a buffet of finger sandwiches, fruits and cheeses to enjoy with your tea.

For your Saturday evening,take in a show at the Music Center in downtown Los Angeles. Depending on scheduled performances, choose from the Philharmonic at the Disney Concert Hall, opera at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, or a play or musical at the Ahmanson Theater or the recently renovated Mark Taper Forum. Be sure to get tickets in advance as Saturday nights usually sell out.

Most shows start at 8:00 PM, so arrive early for parking and dinner. Choices include Joachim Splichal's Patina or Kendall's Brasserie. The French bistro is among my favorites, but I'm just as likely to grab a bite at the Pinot Grill on the plaza next to the Mark Taper. A glass of wine, a burger and the cool night air will set you up for an enjoyable performance at any of the theaters. For a post-theater night cap, head to the Library Bar on Sixth and Hope St.

Sunday breakfast should be a treat, and there's no better place to treat yourself than at The Waffle on Sunset and Vine in Hollywood. Try the blueberry lemon waffle or the decadent chocolate waffle, or a hearty three-egg Denver scramble. They're all delish.

Walk off your calories by heading two blocks west to Amoeba. While the major record store chains are ancient history, Amoeba draws music aficionados to its incredible two-floor collection of new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl records.

Finally, before heading home, complete your arts and culture weekend at the Arclight theater. Take in a current film at the classic Cinerama Dome. Now things don't look so bad, do they?

It's All Happening at the Wild Animal Park

Having a desire to see and photograph interesting wildlife, but wanting to spend somewhat less than the several thousands of dollars it will take to get me to Africa, I've been hanging around at zoos and aquariums lately. My local zoo is the Los Angeles zoo; of that, more later. The Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach, Calif. is among the top aquariums in the United States and I recommend a visit. But again, I'll go into more detail on that in another post.

I've made two day-long visits to the Wild Animal Park in Escondido, Calif. recently, mainly because there are really two different Wild Animal Parks. There's the one you can see by walking and the one you can see by taking a safari ride. Walk the park and you'll never see the giraffes, rhinos, impalas, cape buffaloes, or numerous other species roaming throughout the Asia and Africa backlots. Take the safari tour and you'll miss the lions, cheetahs, gorillas, elephants, exotic birds and other smaller species.

I first took the photo caravan safari, which ran almost four hours and got us up close and personal with hungry but friendly giraffes, and within easy telephoto range of the rhinos and other ungulates.The open-air vehicle allowed for unobstructed picture-taking and the guides were knowledgeable and helpful. But that didn't satisfy my thirst to cover all the residents of the Wild Animal Park.

So I went back last week to do the walk. According to my pedometer, I trekked 9.5 miles and believe me, I covered much of the same ground again and again. Bring good walking shoes, and be aware that much of the park is hilly so there's lots of ups and downs. Also be careful: the paths in the northeast quadrant of the park seem to be less well maintained. I tripped on broken pavement during my first visit and pretty seriously skinned both knees -- through heavy jeans. Nothing life-threatening, though. And the camera survived.

On my most recent visit, the lions were asleep, the gorillas were napping in the shade, and the Sumatran tigers were nowhere to be seen. The elephant exhibits were undergoing lots of construction or reconstruction or some such thing, so they were not very photogenic. The best photography could be found in the "Heart of Africa" section in the southeast quadrant of the park. Follow the signs for the "Kilimanjaro Safari Walk" and you'll see vultures, cranes, flamingos and other colorful birds. A young warthog was finishing up a bath in a small stream and drying himself off, while the cheetahs were happy to pose for pictures with one of their trainers.

You can find numerous photos I took on my visits to the Wild Animal Park at my photo website. From the gallery link, click The Zoo Series and enjoy.

What We Need is a Good $850 Car

Today is the 100th anniversary of the Ford Model T, the automobile that brought motoring to the masses and revolutionized the American landscape. And on this day, Ford announced a 34 percent drop in September sales. As a whole, U.S. auto sales declined 27 percent, with double-digit declines posted by GM, Toyota, Honda, Chrysler, Nissan and just about everyone else.

A new study released today predicts that one in five U.S. auto dealerships will close next year as a result of declining sales, increased operating costs and tight credit. That comes a week after the nation's largest Chevrolet dealership shuttered all 13 of its stores.

For me, it's deja vu all over again. I was a successful BMW salesman in the late 1970s when skyrocketing inflation, in part brought on by the 1979 oil crisis, dried up business. Interest rates for auto loans shot up over 20 percent, and even at those rates, we couldn't get financing for the doctors, lawyers and CEOs who were our most credit-worthy customers. My income plummeted and I left the dealership.

So here we are again. Although interest rates and inflation are low, the credit freeze and market turmoil have all but shut the throttle on new vehicle sales.I guess we could use a $700 billion emergency fund to fix things, maybe. Or maybe we just need a good $850 car.